Set over three floors and 2,000 square feet, the galleries make mouths water, and so the best part of the visit is perhaps the end, when visitors get to sample a range of salami downed, of course ...

Here's the blueprint: sliced Italian sausage, roasted red peppers, green peppers, banana peppers, onions, shredded provolone cheese, tomato basil marinara sauce on crusty artisan bread.

The Food department enjoyed the mild porky flavor but appreciated this pre-sliced salami's "chew" even more. Fiorucci salami is $6.99 (16 ounces) and $7.99 (20 ounces) at Bay Area Safeway markets.

Italian salami, they contended, is a food every bit as noble as cheese or wine. Looking back, it seems obvious that the Bay Area salami-makers were Slow Foodists of their day.

The first time you visit St. Augustine’s D’Aleo Italian Deli, brace yourself when you walk in the door. Once you’re in, you’ll swear a salami slapped you across the face.