From the town of Cruz Bay, I drove a four-by-four Jeep on the eight-mile, serpentine drive across St. John to the village ... gulping a big breath and diving down again. I pulled my goggles ...

a 30-minute car ferry to Cruz Bay, St. John, a 45-minute drive to the island’s east end and Coral Bay (you can get a rental in Cruz Bay, but only if you reserve far in advance. We preferred the ...