To make the dough, mix the yeast, the water, the olive oil and the salt together. Let sit and bubble for about 5 minutes. Add flour and rosemary and stir until fully combined (mixture will be sticky).

When food writers first exhorted us to drizzle olive oil hither and yon in the 1980s, the problem wasn't just that drizzle is a silly word, but that the oil wasn't right. The bland, golden olive ...

Set aside to cool for 20 minutes, then discard the rosemary sprigs and pour the oil into a large bowl. Meanwhile, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

The third and maybe most significant thing I saw was that the cake pans had olive oil in them, and not just enough to coat the pan but a layer 1/8- to 1/4-inch deep.