Now, making homemade pasta is a labor of love. An Italian nonna may make a fresh batch of dough every Sunday morning, but many of us only roll up our sleeves to make pasta for special occasions.

My now-shuttered restaurant, Musi, in Philadelphia, was known for pasta that had no connection to Italy, because working with dough is a universal experience. I wanted to expand the repertoire of ...

Roll the dough into a rectangle that is about 5mm/¼in thick. Feed the pasta through a pasta machine on the widest setting. Fold and feed through again. Repeat the process four or five times.