The result is a canon of noodle dishes, soups and stir-fries, from jajangmyeon noodles in jet-black fermented-bean sauce to aggressively spicy jjampong soup swimming with shrimp, mussels ...

Everyone who works in the kitchen at Spuntino has muscular forearms from making pasta on the hand-cranked roller in the basement. That kind of effort goes into every dish and every glass at this ...