Roughly a century ago, however, cheesemakers identified a particular strain of P. biforme that was fast-growing and albino; it produced a fluffy white mold that was, apparently, quite appetizing.

Brie cheese is creamy, pungent, and delicious. However, this famous French fromage could be under threat due to changes in its manufacturing process.

In the 1950s, manufacturers began to opt for cloned strains rather than the naturally occurring fungi, which grew faster and produced a more uniform cheese. Normandy cheesemakers chose an albino ...