To get the most crust with the cheesiest flavor, Jacques Pépin uses a wide, shallow gratin dish, then creates a lattice on top with thin slices of American cheese. A soufflé ramekin would work too.

“My dear wife has listened to me espouse your wisdom in the morning over coffee,” he says. “With good coffee, good company and borrowed wisdom I have had 30 good years together with her.” Ah yes. The ...