Men sit cross-legged ... sheet up for me at the far end of the grand bure, just a few key Fijian prompts, but now as I try to coolly look past the chief’s smile and nod for my next line ...

Situated amid lush vegetation—giant ferns and mango, coconut and breadfruit trees and towering banyans—Namale is built in Fijian bure style ... He was sitting on the beach with the tide ...